RostockMAX v4 Build Guide

First, click here to read safety information . This safety information may be updated at any time so occasionally check for updates.

NOTE: This guide is intended to be followed online in order to fully utilize the links and documentation found within.

Locate the components packs for your RostockMAX v4

If you are missing parts or have a defective component, please submit a support ticket through the link under the 'Support' tab on the SeeMeCNC website.

This section will be assembling the motor carriage assemblies. For this section you will use the parts shown

You will start with 3 lower motor mounts, which do not use the motors.

This step is only gathering parts! Nothing is put together.

For this section, of the parts from the previous steps, you will use the parts shown. This is the parts for one motor mount. You should seperate 3 seperate pieces like shown in Pic 1.

Using the hex head bolt, attach the PEEK Isolator (the tan piece) to the black cup holder piece.

Yours should look like the item in Pic 3. Tighten the hex bolt, being careful not to over tighten.

For this step you will still be using the parts from the previous step.

You will want to insert the lock nuts into the slots as shown in Pic 1. There is a hex side and a rounded side with a nylon insert on the lock nuts.

You shouldn't generally have to force the nuts in, it should be easy on your fingers.

If you are having trouble, rotate it side to side (like a steering wheel) and it should drop right in with minimal pressure.

The hex side should face the outside of the brackets and the round side with nylon inserts should face the center of the brackets.

Installed lock nuts are shown in Pic 2.

You will insert the lock nuts on all 12 brackets.

Using the smaller side bracket, insert the PEEK mount on the bracket as shown in pic 1.

Using the bolt with a washer, put it through the PEEK bracket and side plate bracket and insert a T-Nut (the flat black threaded nut). Do not tighten this fully. You want it to remain loose.

With the other bolt attach the bolt to the bracket with another T-Nut. This is also not tightened yet, and left loose.

Take one of the idler pulleys and plate it on the peg that is in align with the bolts and t-nuts as shown in Pic 2.

This idler just presses on the peg at this time.

On three of the larger brackets, you will insert the bolts with T-nuts like in the previous step but these 2 will not have washers.

You should have 3 large brackets as shown in pics 1 and 2 with the bolts and T-Nuts.

Find the 1/2" coarse-threaded screws shown in Pic 3 for the next step. You will be using 6 of the 12 screws for the next step.

Line the bracket halves shown in Pic 1. The peg of the large bracket will go into the idler you installed on the smaller bracket.

In the 2 holes of the smaller bracket, insert a screw into each hole and tighten the halves together using a standard P1 Phillips screwdriver.

Pics 2 and 3 show the two locations the screws will be inserted.

Tighten the two screws down to secure the halves together shown in Pics 1 and 2.

Repeat the process on the other 2 brackets so you have 3 completed brackets as shown in Pic 3.

You will insert a pulley onto the motor as shown in Pic 2. There is a flat section on the motor shaft, and you will line the set screw up with this flat so it is tightened onto the flat.

You will insert the pulley as shown in pic 3 to the depth it is shown. The top arrow shows the flat of the motor almost aligned with the base of the pulley. This is where you want to tighten the set screws.

Be sure to tighten BOTH set screws

You will notice the shaft of the motor does not fully come to the end of the pully. This is normal. The bottom of the pulley should be sitting approximately 8-9mm from the black flat of the motor.

Tighten down both set screws on the motor making sure one of the set screws is aligned with the flat part of the motor shaft.

Repeat the process on the other 2 motors so all 3 motors have the pulleys on them.

You will now be assembling the top motor brackets. For this step you will have 3 piles of parts as shown in Pic 1.

The lock nuts should have already been installed in the black brackets in step 5.

Each pile will consist of one endstop, a large and small bracket plate, 2 idlers, 4 lock nuts (already installed in previous step!), 4 t-nuts, 4 large hex key bolts, a motor with pulley, 2 sheet metal screws, 4 M3 threaded screws with washers, and 2 thin #4 threaded screws.

Remove the metal tab from all 3 endstops as shown in Pics 2 and 3. Discard this metal tab as it will not be used.

In this step you will prep the endstop.

Take the endstop and bend the legs of the outer 2 legs as shown in Pic 2.

Make sure the legs are bent in the proper direction as shown in the picture.

Repeat this process to all 3 endstops.

Install the hex key bolts and T-Nuts the same way as previous steps.

Again leave the T-Nuts loose on the bolts and do not tighten them at this point.

The installed T-Nuts should be as shown in Pic 3.

Repeat this process on all 3 small brackets.

Using the small bracket and 2 idler pulleys, place the idlers on the pegs of the bracket as shown in Pic 2.

Like before, the idlers should just press on and are not secured using screws yet.

Do this to all 3 small brackets.

On the larger bracket, install the T-Nuts and hex key bolts on both locations as you did in the previous step.

Again leave these T-Nuts loose as they are just to be put in place and will be tightened at later assembly.

Do this to all 3 brackets

Insert 2 #4 threaded screws into the endstops. Enter the endstop from the side the legs are facing as shown in Pic 1.

Line the screws up to the holes on the large bracket as shown in Pic 2.

Tighten the endstop to the bracket. The screws will thread directly into the plastic bracket. Be careful not to strip the screw head and take your time tightening the screws to secure the endstop.

Pic 1 shows the installed endstop. You will see the button on the endstop is facing the edge of the bracket and must be oriented as shown in Pic 1.

Repeat the endstop installation on all 3 large brackets.

Find the 4 M3x10mm screws and washers.

Place the washers on all 4 screws. Repeat this for the other 2 piles of parts giving you 12 M3x10mm screws and washers.

This step will use a large bracket and motor with pulley installed on it as shown in Pic 1.

Align the motor with the bracket as shown in Pic 2. It is easiest to line the screw with the hole that does not have a slot first. In Pic 2 this is in reference to the bottom left hole for the motor mounting hole.

Using the M3x10mm screw with washer, attach the motor to the bracket using a standard P1 Phillips screwdriver.

Repeat this process on all 3 large brackets attaching the motors to the brackets.

Do not FULLY tighten the screws at this point. It is okay to tighten them very slightly snug, but the motor should be able to pivot in the bracket following the sloted holes.

Set the motor to the counter clockwise location as shown in Pic 1. The screws should be snug enough to hold its position, but loose enough you can rotate the motor along the slots.

Using the small bracket, align the pegs of the large bracket to attach the halves together. The pegs will go into the idler bearings to align.

Using 2 sheet metal screws, insert one screw in each hole of the small bracket circled in Pic 3.

Repeat this on all 3 brackets.

Tighten the sheet metal screws inserted in the bracket.

This will secure the two bracket halves together.

Repeat the process on all 3 brackets. You should have 3 assembled motor brackets as shown in Pic 3.

This section will be prepping some of the wiring for the machine.

You will have a bag of wiring, 4 blue ring terminals, 7 red ring terminals, 5 spade connectors, and 2 large red ring terminals.

In this section you will be using the 18ga wiring, and you can set aside the thinner 26ga wire as they will not be used yet.

Get the 3 green wires from the bag. You will have one long and two short green wires. You will also use one large red ring terminal, one blue ring terminal, and one spade connector.

Wire lengths: 2x green 150mm long, 1x green 1350mm long.

Strip the ends of all the wires as shown.

This step will use one blue ring terminal and all 3 wires.

Combine the ends of all 3 wires.

Twist the 3 ends together to combine the wires. Place the blue crimp over the ends of the combined wires as shown in Pic 3.

Using a pair of wire crimpers, crimp the blue terminal to the 3 green wires as shown in Pic 1 and 2.

Your 3 wires should be attached securely to the blue crimp as shown in Pic 3. Gently tug the connection to make sure it is secure and tight so it does not work free or create a loose connection.

This step will use one large red ring terminal and one spade connector.

Attach the ring terminal as before to the end of one of the short green wires. The wires should all be stripped as well to attach the crimp to bare wire.

Insert the spade connector on the end of the other short stripped green wire.

Crimp the spade connector to the wire making sure you have a sold crimp.

You should have a wire harness as shown in Pic 3. It will have a long green wire with one end free, a blue ring terminal with all 3 green wires attached to it, one short green wire with a spade connector, and one short green wire with a large red ring terminal on it.

From the wire bag, find two white wires. One short and one slightly longer.

Wire lengths: 1x white 150mm long, 1x white 400mm long.

You will also be using one blue ring terminal and one spade connector.

Strip the ends of all the wires as you did with the green wires.

Combine the ends of the two wires together similarly to you did with the green wires.

Place the blue ring terminal over the pair of wires and crimp as before securing the two wires in the blue ring terminal.

On the end of the short white wire, you will attach the spade connector.

Crimp the spade connector on the end of the short wire as you did with the green wires.

You will now have a white wire harness as shown in pic 3 with both white wires going to the blue ring terminal, and the short white wire with a spade connector.

This step will use 2 black wires. One short and one long. Note that there are 2 other very long black wires, these will not be used yet. Also you will use one blue ring terminal, one small red ring terminal, and one spade connector.

Wire lengths: 1x black 400mm, 1x black 150mm

Strip all the wires as previously done with the other steps.

Combine the ends of the black wires together like the previous steps and crimp the blue connector on the combined wires.

Crimp the spade terminal on the remaining end of the short wire.

Crimp the smaller red ring terminal to the remaining end of the long black wire.

You will now have the black wire harness complete as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use one short length black wire and two spade connectors.

Wire length: 1x black 150mm

Strip the ends of the black wire and crimp the spade terminals to each end of the wire.

You should have a wire as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use a short length of black wire and a small red ring terminal.

Wire length: 1x black 150mm

Strip the ends of the wire as previous steps, and crimp the ring terminal to one end of the wire.

You should have a wire as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use one long length of red wire, and one shorter length of red wire. Also you will use one blue ring terminal and one small red ring terminal.

Wire length: 1x red 1350mm, 1x red 400mm

Strip the ends of the wires as previously done.

Combine the ends of the two wires as done previously. Crimp the blue ring terminal to the end of the combined wires.

Crimp the red ring terminal to the end of the shorter red wire as shown in Pic 3

This step will use the two longest black wires from the pack. Also you will use two small red ring terminals.

Wire length: 2x black 1350mm

Strip the ends of the wires and crimp one red ring terminal on each wire.

Each wire will have one ring terminal and one end with nothing attached.

The remaining 2 wires will be a red and a black wire and 2 red ring terminals.

Wire length: 1x red 400mm, 1x black 400mm

Strip the ends of the wires and crimp one ring terminal on each wire.

You should have two wires with a ring terminal on each and a bare end on the other side of each wire.

Open the box containing the power supply.

Remove the plastic covering on the power supply.

Locate the red voltage selector switch on the power supply.

Using a screwdriver slide the switch so it displays 115 on the switch.

The plastic screw next to the screw terminals of the power supply is a voltage adjustment screw.

Looking at Pic 3, the plastic screw should be oriented as shown with the flat part of the screw on the right of the screw and slightly angled as shown. The red drawing in the lower left should show the orientation of the screw.

This section will be working on the lower portion of the machine.

You will have 3 bracket assemblies built earlier. These are the ones without the motors.

You will also need the lower sheet metal plate, 3 shims (big), 6 plastic feet, 6 rubber feet, 6 nylon screws and nuts, and 6 of the 12 6-32 x 7/8"L Phillip Pan Head Screws as shown in the picture.

Take the big shim plate and place it on the assembled bracket on the side opposite of the PEEK insulator.

Put the shim plate on all 3 brackets as shown in Pic 3.

Place the shim and bracket on the sheet metal lining up the tabs from the bracket with the holes on the sheet metal.

Pic 2 is showing that the tabs will stick out through the sheet metal. This is normal.

Place all 3 brackets and shims on the sheet metal as shown in Pic 3.

Make sure the sheet metal is in the orientation shown in Pic 3 as you do not want to mount the brackets to the wrong side of the sheet metal.

All 3 brackets should have the PEEK insulator facing upwards at this point.

Insert the nylon screws into the black plastic feet so the head of the screws goes inside the feet as shown in the first pic. Do this to all 6 screws and feet.

Place the nylon nuts in the shim plates as shown in Pic 2.

Insert the nylon screw and foot through the bottom of the plate and up through the shim plate, screwing into the nylon nut to secure the foot in place.

Install all 6 feet this way.

Flip the assembly upside down to stand on the brackets.

Make sure all 6 nylon screws are securely tightened down. Be careful not to over tighten as that can strip the nylon screw.

The rubber feet are a press fit over the black plastic feet.

Press on all 6 rubber feet over the black plastic feet and snap them into place.

This step will use 6 of the 6-32 x 7/8" long phillips screws.

With the base still upside down on the brackets, insert and tighten the 6 screws between the feet into each bracket using a standard P2 phillips screw driver.

Pic 3 shows the locations of all 6 screws. Tighten these screws.

This step we will be assembling the power supply cage. You will use the sheet metal power supply mount, rocker switch, 2x fuses, 2x M3 nylon insert lock nut, 2x m3 x 10mm long phillips screws, and plug receiver with fuse holder

First you will be installing the fuses into the power plug and fuse holder.

The fuse drawer can be slid out with a flathead screwdriver to pry the door open and there is a location for both fuses in the fuse holder as shown in Pic 2.

Slide the fuse holder drawer closed as shown in Pic 3 and close it completely.

Insert the plug reciever with fuse holder into the power supply bracket from the outside of the bracket as shown in Pic 1.

Using the M3 x 10mm long screws from the outside of the bracket, insert the screw through the plug reciever and power supply bracket.

Holding the M3 lock nuts with a pair or pliers, screw the plug reciever in place to the power supply bracket securing it in place.

The plug receiver will use both screws and both lock nuts to secure it in place.

Repeat holding the lock nut with pliers to secure the second screw.

Your plug receiver should look as shown in pic 2.

Remove the large nut from the rocker switch to separate them.

Install the rocker switch into the hole of the power supply bracket as shown in Pic 2 with the legs of the rocker switch closest to the vent holes.

Secure the rocker switch in place with the nut removed at the beginning of this step. You may need to use a larger set of pliers to tighten the nut securely.

This section will be wiring up the power supply.

We will start with the black wire harness that has 2 wires made earlier.

Start with the outermost screw on the power supply. It is labeled with an L above the screw.

Remove the screw and attach to the power supply on the blue ring terminal and tighten the screw to secure it in place.

The next position labeled with N will be the screw you will attach the next wire to.

You will use the 2 white wires that were combined and made earlier.

Secure the wires through the blue ring terminal to the screw labeled N on the power supply.

We will now use the green wire harness you made previously.

In the third location next to the white wires, you will secure the blue ring terminal with 3 green wires going to it into the screw next to the white wires.

This step you will use the power supply bracket and the black wire with a spade connector at each end of it.

Press one of the spade connectors onto the rocker switch. Press the spade connector on the leg of the switch that is in the center of the switch as shown in Pic 2.

From the power supply, insert the black wire with the spade connector on the remaining leg of the rocker switch.

Take the white wire with spade connector from the power supply and attach it to the leg of the power plug as shown in Pic 1.

The locations of these power wires is important. Follow the pictures carefully!

Take the black wire from the rocker switch and attach the other end with the spade connector to the power plug as shown in Pic 2.

Take the green wire from the power supply with the spade connector on it and plug it into the power plug as shown in Pic 3.

Route the long white and black wire through the round hole in the back of the bracket.

Route the long green wire out the hole on the front side as shown in Pic 3.

This step will use the 4 M4-.7 x 5mm long phillips head screws.

Slide the power supply bracket over the power supply shown in Pic 2.

Secure the power supply to the bracket using the M4 x 5mm long screws through the bracket into the power supply.

This step will use 4 of the nylon click-shank rivets.

Place the power supply and bracket on the lower assembly as shown in Pic 2. Line up the 4 tabs on the bracket with the holes on the base sheet metal plate.

From the underside of the base sheet metal plate, insert the nylon rivet through the base plate and through the power supply bracket tabs.

Pres the top of the rivet to lock them into place and secure the power supply bracket to the sheet metal plate.

Locate the solid state relay from the electronics pack.

Remove the clear top cover and you will use the remaining 2 M3 x 10mm long screws from the lower hardware pack and 2 M3 lock nuts.

Line up the solid state relay next to the power supply as shown in Pic 3. Make sure the orientation of the relay is as shown in the picture with the output of the relay towards the center of the machine, and the input towards the edge of the machine.

Use the M3 x 10mm screw through the bottom of the machine up through the sheet metal and through the solid state relay.

Secure the screws in place with the lock nuts as shown in Pic 2.

Remove the screw for the output terminal of the next to the power supply.

Secure the black wire coming from the hole of the power supply bracket to the screw you just removed as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use the 4 wago 2 conductor clips.

They will have double sided tape pre-installed on them. You will remove the red protective film from the tape to expose the adhesive as shown in Pic 2.

Attach two of the connectors next to the relay and two of them behind the relay as shown in Pic 3. Just press them in place and the adhesive will secure them in place.

Attach the white wire to the first position of the wago connector next to the power supply as shown.

To attach the wire to the connector, lift the orange cover on the connector, insert the wire, and close the orange cover to secure the wire in place.

Make sure the part of the wire secured is stripped and the bare wire is being secured by the connector.

Take the black wire that has one ring terminal and bare wire on the other end. Secure the ring terminal to the solid state relay as you did with the black wire from the power supply to the other output terminal on the relay.

Secure the other end of the black wire to the second wago connector as shown in Pic 3.

The wago locations from the power supply will contain a white wire, next terminal will be empty, then black wire from the relay, and the last position will be empty at this point.

Take the 400mm black wire with a ring terminal on one end and bare wire on the other side and feed it into the power supply bracket hole as shown.

Feed the ring terminal into the power supply bracket hole and feed it to the front of the power supply as shown in Pic 2.

You will secure the ring terminal from the black wire to the next open spot of the power supply below the area labeled -V.

The other end of the wire will go to the wago connector next to the solid state relay as shown in Pic 3. This will be inserted into the second position from the left on the wago connectors.

Repeat the same process as the previous step with the 400mm red wire that has one ring terminal and bare wire on the other end.

Feed the wire through the power supply bracket hole as in the previous step shown in Pic 1.

Secure the ring terminal to the power supply to the first location under the label for +V. You will have 2 empty screw terminals on the power supply between this red wire and the black wire installed in the previous step as shown in Pic 2.

The bare end of the wire will go on the second wago in the position next to the black wire installed in the previous step as shown in Pic 3.

This step will use the red wire harness that has 2 red wires into the blue ring terminal with one 400mm long red wire with a red ring terminal, and the 1350mm long red wire with one bare end.

Feed the 400mm long wire over the power supply and through the power supply bracket hole as shown in Pic 2.

Secure the red ring terminal from the 400mm red wire to the solid state relay as shown in Pic 3. The red wire goes to the terminal labeled with a + above it.

Continuing to work with the red 2-wire harness from the previous step, route the 1350mm red wire out of the power supply enclosure using the same hole as the 1350mm green wire.

Secure the blue ring terminal to the power supply using the second from the last screw terminal under the label +V on the power supply.

In this step you will use one of the 1350mm long black wires with a ring terminal on one end.

Feed the ring terminal into the power supply bracket through the hole in the front as shown in Pic 1.

Attach the ring terminal next to the black wire on the power supply under the terminal labeled -V as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use the other 1350mm long black wire with one ring terminal.

Attach the ring terminal to the solid state relay in the remaining location next to the power supply as shown in Pic 2.

This step will use one of the extrusion towers.

We will be installing the Y tower for the machine.

You will have 3 wires coming from the power supply out the same side hole in the front of the power supply. One red, one black, and one green.

Feed these wires through the center of the aluminum extrusion pointed out in Pic 1.

Feed the wires all the way through the extrusion till it is coming out the other side.

On the brackets closest the hole the wires are coming from the power supply at, you will insert the extrusion in the brackets.

This is why the T-Nuts were left loose. The T-nuts go inside the sides of the rail. Make sure all 4 T-Nuts go inside the rail. You may need to loosen the button head screws to get the T-Nuts in the extrusion.

You will lower the extrusion as far as it will go in the brackets. The bottom of the extrusion will line up with the notches located on the brackets as shown in Pic 3.

Tighten all 4 Button head cap screws to secure the tower to the brackets.

Make sure these bolts are tightened down and secure as they are what hold the towers in place and help prevent any flex in the towers.

Get one of the small shims from the frame pack and place it on the brackets as shown in Pic 3.

From the top of the tower, pull the wires to remove any slack that may have been in the base.

These wires do not need to be tight, just take out the excess slack so it looks like Pic 3.

In this step you will get another extrusion piece for the X tower.

Install the extrusion for the X tower the same way you did with the previous tower.

There are no wires that go through this tower.

Install the tower in the location at the back of the power supply and tighten the button head screws tightly.

Use another small shim piece and place it on top of the brackets like in the previous step.

This step we will get the 2 26ga white wires from the wire pack .

The ends of these wires are pre-crimped with different style crimps. Refer to the pictures and make sure the correct side are used.

These connectors are inserted into a white 2 pin connector aligning the back of the connector with the windows in the connector

Insert them all the way until they click and lock in place in the connector as shown in Pic 2.

Feed the other ends of the white wires down the X tower you just installed in the previous step.

Feed the wires all the way down and out the bottom of the extrusion and bring them out the side as shown in Pic 2.

This step we will use the last remaining aluminum extrusion tower.

Feed the black wire coming from the Solid State Relay up the extrusion as you have done before and out the top of the extrusion as shown in Pics 1 and 2.

Install the extrusion in the last remaining bracket that is closest to the relay and tighten the button head screws to secure the tower in place.

Install the last remaining small shim on the Z tower.

We will now be prepping the heated bed parts. You will use the cartridge thermistor, aluminum thermistor housing, Thermistor PCB, 2x M3 x 10mm long flat head screws, and one washer for this step.

Insert the thermsitor into the aluminum thermistor bracket as far as it will go.

Use one of the M3 x 10mm long screws to secure the thermistor in place.

Do not over-tighten the screw as you can crush the thermistor. You only want to tighten it slightly more than snug.

In the pics, there is no white plug on the thermistor, yours SHOULD have the plug still on it!

Plug the thermistor into the supplied thermistor PCB as shown in Pic 1.

This PCB is a jumper between the thermistor and the thermistor wiring that goes to the main electronics board.

This step you will need the Heated bed with aluminum heat spreader, the remaining M3 x 10mm long flat head screw, #4 washer, and the thermistor setup you made in the previous step.

Using the bottom most hole on the bed that is by itself, insert the screw through the washer and through the bed and screw it into the thermistor holder as shown in Pic 2.

The first pic shows a different connector on the thermistor. This has changed and you will have the plug in board connected instead as the assembly has been updated for a more reliable connection.

Orient the base as shown in Pic 1. The front of the machine is in the lower portion of this picture.

Place the heated bed on the PEEK insulators lining up the holes on the heat spreader with the holes on the PEEK insulators as shown in Pic 2.

Using the 2 white wires for the thermistor, each end will have different connectors on them. Looking at the first picture, insert the wires into the black 2 pin connector shown.

When inserted fully, you will hear the connector click into place and you will see the locking tab in the hole in the connector as seen in pic 2.

Plug this connector into the board you plugged the thermistor into until it clicks in place.

Strip approximately a half inch of the wires in the orange tube coming from the heated bed.

Feed the wires in the orange silicone through the large hole of the bracket of the X tower as shown in Pic 1 and 2.

Attach the red wire from the heated bed to the wago connector with the white wire in the other side of it.

Attach the black wire of the heated bed in the first wago connector that has the black wire in the other position already installed in previous steps.

Your bed should be attached to the connectors as shown in Pic 3.

In the pics shown is a white connector for older builds, your machine should have the thermistor attached to the new thermistor PCB.

This step you will need the 3x M4 x 10mm long flat head screws from the lower hardware pack to attach the bed to the PEEK insulators.

Screw the M4 x10mm flat head screws through the bed into the PEEK insulators at each of the 3 mounting tabs on the heated bed as shown in Pic 2.

Pic 3 shows the 3 locations of the tabs you will be screwing the bed to the PEEK insulators.

Attach the SE300 probe sticker and the 110VAC stickers to the power supply bracket as shown in Pic 2.

The sticker is a notice to not work on the machine while plugged in due to the AC voltage going through the wires behind the bracket as a safety precaution.

Locate the ROSTOCKMAX v4 nameplate and two nylon push rivets. Also grab the lower sheet metal cover plate as seen in the pictures.

Insert the name plate from the backside of the sheet metal into the rectangle opening.

Attach the name plate to the sheet metal using the push rivets through the sheet metal and through the name plate.

Press the head of the rivet to lock it in place and secure the name plate to the lower sheet metal cover.

This step will use the lower sheet metal, the 60mm x 60mm x 25mm fan from the electronics pack, 4x M3 x 35mm long phillips screws from the lower hardware pack, and 4 o-rings from the lower hardware pack. You will also need 4x M3 nylon lock nuts and 4 washers.

Cut off the white plug from the fan as close to the plug as possible and discard this plug as shown in Pic 2.

Strip about 10mm of the ends of each wire from the fan as shown in Pic 3.

Note the orientation of the fan . The fan has an arrow facing one side of the fan.

This fan is used as an exhaust and the arrow should face the sheet metal.

Insert the 4 M3 x 35mm long phillips screws from the outside of the sheet metal and through the 4 holes for the fan.

Insert the o-rings over each of the 4 screws from the back side of the sheet metal to hold the screws in place. These o-rings will act as a vibration damper to reduce vibration noise.

Insert the fan with the arrow facing the sheet metal over the 4 screws.

Place a washer over each of the 4 screws and secure with the M3 nylon lock nuts.

Pic 3 shows the o-ring, then fan, then washer, then nylon lock nut.

Do not over-tighten the lock nut on the fan to over squish the o-ring. You want there to be a gap between the fan and the sheet metal as shown in Pic 3.

With the nameplate and logo facing the front of the machine, place the lower sheet metal cover over the 3 towers.

Feed the wires and aluminum through the 3 corner holes of the sheet metal and slide it down to the base of the machine.

You will see the large opening on the sheet metal will be on the side where the power plug and switch are located as shown in Pic 3.

Slightly bend out the lip on the side of the power supply to wrap over the power supply bracket.

Slide the lower sheet metal cover down and over the power supply bracket.

Note that the lip of the sheet metal cover does not wrap over the bottom sheet metal plate, and it sits on top of it as shown in Pic 3.