So should both sides be showing a little threading or should the nozzel be seated all the way and the heatbreak be the only side showing threading?
Try the ones at https://github.com/seemecnc/slicing-prof... if you can’t find the one you need in the slicer profile zip that is linked above.
If you are like me and feel the need to tune your heaters this printer based on the Duet 2 controller so the instructions from https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Sec... should work. Basic GCODE would be M303 H1 P1 S235 (change the number after the H to change which heater you are tuning. Change the number after the S to change the temp you are tuning too)
The original v3 I got that was ATP from you has the end stop wires in a triangle at the base of the tower blocks and the stepper wires running in a separate bundle triangle at the top of the tower blocks. Is this sufficient clearance not to be a problem? I would like to keep this clean layout.
Is this liner custom for the dual setup? I’m migrating from a 280 to a 300 hot end and I damaged the liner trying to remove it from the 280.
This fixed my tower crashing issue on the new to me v3 I purchased.
What toothing does the v3 stepper motors for the EZR use? I can tell they are 1.8 deg motors but I don’t know the number of teeth.
How safe is it to take apart to clean out?
The firmware in the repo has a commented out ; line for the carbon arms and that uses 337 for the L value. This instruction states 340.5 for the 3.2 machine. Which one is correct?
Once they have, you'll be able to view a graph of their reputation gained over time.
Here's a preview of what the graph will look like:
No reputation gained yet.