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Introduction

You'll need to download and install MatterControl for your platform.

Windows

Macintosh

Linux

  1. Open MatterControl and click the "Printers..." button  and then click on the Add New Printer button. You'll be presented with a Setup Wizard that will allow you to enter the Make & Model of the printer you're adding.  In this case, you'll chose the one that best describes your printer. Note that if you're using the SeeMeCNC branded version of MatterControl, SeeMeCNC will be the only Make available.
    • Open MatterControl and click the "Printers..." button and then click on the Add New Printer button.

    • You'll be presented with a Setup Wizard that will allow you to enter the Make & Model of the printer you're adding. In this case, you'll chose the one that best describes your printer.

    • Note that if you're using the SeeMeCNC branded version of MatterControl, SeeMeCNC will be the only Make available.

    • If you have an H2 printer, it has not yet been added to MatterControl as an option. Choose Orion instead. You will need to change the bed size in the Printer > Print Area settings of MatterControl.

    • For the 178mm arms your bed size is: 140 x 140

    • For the 290mm arms your bed size is: 200 x 200

    • The next page of the Setup Wizard will ask to install a Communications Driver. If you installed one during the MatterControl install process, you don't need to install a driver here. For Mac & Linux users, no driver is required.

  2. The next Setup Wizard page will instruct  you to disconnect your printer to allow it to detect what port it's attached to. Once the Setup Wizard has detect the port your printer is connected to, you can click the Connect button in order to complete the configuration process.
    • The next Setup Wizard page will instruct you to disconnect your printer to allow it to detect what port it's attached to.

    • Once the Setup Wizard has detect the port your printer is connected to, you can click the Connect button in order to complete the configuration process.

  3. The next task is to perform the initial calibration of the printer.  This is done by sending a "G29" command to the Rostock MAX v3. Click on the Settings & Controls button as indicated. Click on the Options button and then click on the Show Terminal button.  This will open up a serial terminal that you'll use to talk to your Rostock MAX v3.
    • The next task is to perform the initial calibration of the printer. This is done by sending a "G29" command to the Rostock MAX v3.

    • Click on the Settings & Controls button as indicated.

    • Click on the Options button and then click on the Show Terminal button. This will open up a serial terminal that you'll use to talk to your Rostock MAX v3.

  4. Once the Serial Terminal window is open, type G29 into the input line as indicated and press Enter, or click the Send button.
    • Once the Serial Terminal window is open, type G29 into the input line as indicated and press Enter, or click the Send button.

    • Sending G29 starts off the built-in calibration process that is needed to get the Rostock MAX v3 to a state where a more accurate calibration can be performed.

  5. Next you need to PID Tune your hot end. This will ensure that the algorithm that controls the power to the heating element is working at optimal performance.
    • Next you need to PID Tune your hot end. This will ensure that the algorithm that controls the power to the heating element is working at optimal performance.

    • Send the following command via the terminal: M303 P0 S235 X0

    • After you have run the PID tune via MatterControl you should disconnect from MatterControl and then re-connect before performing any further operations.

    • Auto-Tuning is an iterative process, so run the routine again via the terminal, sending: M303 P0 S235 X0

    • Full explanation: M303 is the instruction to start the Autotune Process, P0 instructs it to perform the test for the hotend, S235 sets the temperature to run the test to, and X0 is the instruction to save the results to EEPROM.

    • If you plan to print high temperature materials you should run a PID Auto-Tune at a higher temperature at the target temp that you plan to be printing at.

  6. If your first layer is not as level as you wish you can run an advanced calibration. To do this,  you'll need to open a web browser to SeeMeCNC's Delta Calibration Wizard.  This web site will guide you through the remaining steps required to finish the calibration of your SeeMeCNC Delta 3D Printer!
    • If your first layer is not as level as you wish you can run an advanced calibration. To do this, you'll need to open a web browser to SeeMeCNC's Delta Calibration Wizard. This web site will guide you through the remaining steps required to finish the calibration of your SeeMeCNC Delta 3D Printer!

  7. Now that the printer is assembled and calibrated, it is time to get better acquainted with MatterControl and running your first prints.
    • Now that the printer is assembled and calibrated, it is time to get better acquainted with MatterControl and running your first prints.

    • Here is the Getting Started User Manual

    • DO NOT USE THIS GUIDE if you have a DUET controlled SeeMeCNC 3D Printer.

    • Includes RostockMAX v3.2

    • Artemis

    • And all newer SeeMeCNC 3D printers.

Finish Line

19 other people completed this guide.

geneb

Member since: 02/24/2014

517,798 Reputation

8 Guides authored

8 Comments

Is there no way to calibrate without directly connecting to my computer? Is it possible to do any of these steps from inserting an SD card?

IQdesignlabs - Reply

Once you’ve got the firmware installed, you can navigate to the calibration menu - go to Advanced Settings -> Calibration Menu -> Full Calibration. That will perform the same task that the G29 g-code does, but it won’t do the PID tuning (which with the current firmware, really isn’t required).

geneb - Reply

My G29 sets the auto calibration in action but each time it moves the hot end over to the X side of the bed it crashes. It pushes the end down past where it should go and makes a horrific sound like it’s trying to self destruct. It sounds like the rubber belt is stalled and the gear drive is ripping at the teeth. I gritted me teeth and let it continue and after a half dozen failed actions it said CALIBRATION FAILED on the small LED panel at the top,of the machine.

Karl Scribner - Reply

Karl, what printer are you working with? When the nozzle smacks the bed like that, you shouldn’t ever just let it keep going - you could damage the belts or other components.

geneb - Reply

What causes the hot end assembly to crash like that? On my MAX 3 it not only crashes on the plate, but against the side rail too.

Louis Ludovici -

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