I found it easier to trim the heater lead 2mm shorter than where the fuse lead is bent. Then trim the fuse lead 2mm shorter that the ferrule against the bend. Remove the heater cartridge from the block and slide the big silicone over the little silicone on the bent lead. Slide the ferrule over the fuse lead, and the heater lead into the ferrule. Carefully fiddle with the whole assembly until the heater is back in the block with the fuse & heater leads in the ferrule. The big and little silicone tubing are squished against the heater, and the ferrule is against the bend in the fuse lead. Crimp the naked ferrule, then slide the big silicone over it to insulate. I also squirted a little copper anti-seize compound into the ferrule before crimping for a lower resistance connection.
Intracranial flatus alert: There is no need whatsoever for two idler bearing/cover assemblies on the *base* tower supports. Grab the bag with three bearings, not six.
I found it easier to trim the heater lead 2mm shorter than where the fuse lead is bent. Then trim the fuse lead 2mm shorter that the ferrule against the bend. Remove the heater cartridge from the block and slide the big silicone over the little silicone on the bent lead. Slide the ferrule over the fuse lead, and the heater lead into the ferrule. Carefully fiddle with the whole assembly until the heater is back in the block with the fuse & heater leads in the ferrule. The big and little silicone tubing are squished against the heater, and the ferrule is against the bend in the fuse lead. Crimp the naked ferrule, then slide the big silicone over it to insulate. I also squirted a little copper anti-seize compound into the ferrule before crimping for a lower resistance connection.
Intracranial flatus alert: There is no need whatsoever for two idler bearing/cover assemblies on the *base* tower supports. Grab the bag with three bearings, not six.
To PID tune the bed change P0 to P1 (heater1) and S235 to S100 (100 degrees).