If you aren’t sure about the step angle of your motor (1.8 deg. or 0.9 deg.) you can search the part number on-line. The Automation Technology KL17H248-15-4A motors I have in my printer have a 1.8 degree step angle.
Just an observation for those who try to double and triple check everything: The photographs of the E0 Heater terminal block (small green screw-terminal) shown in Step 30, third photo and again in Step 38, 2nd photo are NOT correct. The photos of this terminal block shown in Step 29 and Step 37 are correct.
I really can’t determine how it is from the picture but my instinct was to put the washers under the screw heads. However, I later found putting the washers between the power supply and the PSU Blocker helped space the Blocker enough to engage the base plate in Step 12. Your mileage may vary.
I believe hardware is from package 84493 “Rostock Max V3 Base Electronics H/W pack”.
2x 6-32 x 1.75” Phillip Pan Head Screws. Stainless
2x 4-40 Blind T-Nut (zinc plate)
2x 4-40 x .75” Phillip Flat Head Machine screw. Stainless
The “off” position of the switch: Note the two connection terminals on the back are offset from center. When the switch rocker is positions such that the low point aligns with these terminals the switch is off.
Good instructions. There were a couple of minor things that I had to think about before I understood what I needed to do. If I had to build another hotend I’m pretty sure I could do it in 1/4th the time I did this one.
If you aren’t sure about the step angle of your motor (1.8 deg. or 0.9 deg.) you can search the part number on-line. The Automation Technology KL17H248-15-4A motors I have in my printer have a 1.8 degree step angle.
Just an observation for those who try to double and triple check everything: The photographs of the E0 Heater terminal block (small green screw-terminal) shown in Step 30, third photo and again in Step 38, 2nd photo are NOT correct. The photos of this terminal block shown in Step 29 and Step 37 are correct.
Hey… is anyone else bothered by the last step that says “Bridge the two solder pads as shown…” but the final photograph DOES NOT show this?
Yep. I ran the white wires first as well. Then the black. No problem.
Just chuck up an Allen head in your small electric screw driver and the screws will go right in.
I really can’t determine how it is from the picture but my instinct was to put the washers under the screw heads. However, I later found putting the washers between the power supply and the PSU Blocker helped space the Blocker enough to engage the base plate in Step 12. Your mileage may vary.
I believe hardware is from package 84493 “Rostock Max V3 Base Electronics H/W pack”.
2x 6-32 x 1.75” Phillip Pan Head Screws. Stainless
2x 4-40 Blind T-Nut (zinc plate)
2x 4-40 x .75” Phillip Flat Head Machine screw. Stainless
The “off” position of the switch: Note the two connection terminals on the back are offset from center. When the switch rocker is positions such that the low point aligns with these terminals the switch is off.
Okay, so don’t remove the zip tie and then press that red button thingy… Just say’in.
Good instructions. There were a couple of minor things that I had to think about before I understood what I needed to do. If I had to build another hotend I’m pretty sure I could do it in 1/4th the time I did this one.
Yep. Me too. Used a Dremel, then cleaned up with a file. Careful not to take off too much material.
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