Adam Ruthford

I ran the white wires first and then the black wire. Worked like a champ. Keep the white wires from bending right where they enter the tube so you don’t get a weak spot in the insulation.

Thank you Rick for your comment. Glad I read all the way through as I was wondering the same thing. Hopefully it works just plugging in the wires. I did have to get creative routing the leads to the fans. One end of the four fan connections was marked hot end so I put that one there. I was also short when it came to the tube that insulates the thermistor legs, another 20 mm would be nice, I used some of the leftover fiberglass insulated wire with the leads stripped out to make up the difference. When constructing the eight terminal plug in step 6 just go ahead and depress the catch in the rectangular hole above each of the wiring holes as suggested. Much easier to get it in there, especially for the little wires.

For steps 2 and 3 you need the bage 84495 Rostock Max v3 Idler Hardware Pack.

Two comments. Don’t forget to remove the white paper cover from the buzzer on the front of the controller, it says to do so it is just easy to overlook. Also, I have a leftover part from this step. It is a small triangular shaped circuit boar with two male pin connectors on one side and three female pin connectors on the other.

A couple of things. All my parts were black. Just know you might get a different color, spent a few frantic moments looking everywhere in the box for blue parts. The little posts on the spring arm in step 3 that you press the other half of the spring arm over had a lot of plastic hanging off the sides. I trimmed that off with a pocket knife, otherwise it wouldn’t fit. I don’t know if it is significant but the assembled spring arms themselves can fit two ways. Either with the holes in the spring arm assembly up or down. I matched what was in the picture for all three.