My whip came with connectors already installed on both ends. It is easier to get the 4 pin white connector through the cable mount hub when it is not installed in the lower top plate.
I will reinforce the “Pay attention to the correct orientation of the spring arm.”. I didn’t and had to un-assemble them and turn them around on all three.
In this step, I would install the nylock nuts first. Then install the end stop switches. The leg of the end stop switch is in the way to easily install the nylock nut that gets inserted near it. Vance
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In case your hot end and effector was not pre-assembled like mine wasn’t, there is a build guide for it available. SE300 Build Guide
I think this guide needs to be linked to from the build guide for the Rostock Max v3.2 as my effector and hot end was not assembled.
I had to go buy a 7mm - 1.0 tap to chase the threads so the knurled part would go in. Make sure you blow out any debris after you do this.
Buy spare thermistors because your going to break a few trying to get it in place.
You don’t bridge all the way to pad #1. You just bridge from pad #2 to the center pad that is between 1 and 2. It shows that in the picture in step 6.
My whip came with connectors already installed on both ends. It is easier to get the 4 pin white connector through the cable mount hub when it is not installed in the lower top plate.
Make sure none of the wires get trapped under the motor mounts or side pieces.
I will reinforce the “Pay attention to the correct orientation of the spring arm.”. I didn’t and had to un-assemble them and turn them around on all three.
Solder the wires on before you put the wheels in place. Less chance of melting them.
In this step, I would install the nylock nuts first. Then install the end stop switches. The leg of the end stop switch is in the way to easily install the nylock nut that gets inserted near it. Vance