I agree with other comments about adding a list of tools and materials as well as the small font on the bags being VERY difficult to read. Parts bags were grouped by physical orientation (bottom plate, etc.), but assembly instructions jumped around enough that multiple bags were open at the same time. It would be more helpful is bags corresponded to instruction steps. Or maybe assign numbers to bags and then each step can note what bag(s) to pull hardware from. I also had a decent amount of hardware left over when done. So throughout the build I wasn’t sure if I had missed assembling something or if having extra was normal. I do appreciate having some extras. Lastly, my printer powered up and printed on its first try without me having to debug or fix any issues (other than trimming off extra belt on carriages). So that is a testament to the quality of the instructions.
If too much excess is left on the belt, it can prevent correct operation of the end stop system. This happens by the excess belt hitting the top base, folding over and then covering the hole in which the carriage probe passes through. This prevents the probe from triggering the end stop switch.
Instructions are missing quite a bit of detail. Tube locks are not mentioned, but are shown in photos. No discussion on how to insert tube into sheath. I used photos as guidelines. I pushed together the sheath to loosen the weave and create an opening for the tube. Once inserted I did the same for where the tube exits the weave close to the SE300. Using the photos as the guidelines, I threaded the the tube through the lock, inserted the tube into the EZR until it bottomed out and then inserted the fork section of the lock in-between the locking sleeve and the body of the EZR. I did the same for the SE300 end. I found my PTFE tube to be too long by about three inches. I trimmed it to length and did final installation and checked that the whip had some slack when the SE300 was at its furthest reach at the Y tower.
If you don’t follow the instructions correctly and install the blocks upside down this will cause problems later. The blocks look symmetrical, but they are not. If installed upside down, it will set the bed height too high and will prevent the bed clamps from rotating into place.
The fan for the Duet did not have connectors and I crimped KK connectors on as instructed. This fan already had KK connectors installed. Maybe I used the wrong fans at the wrong time, or maybe this one just happened to have KK connectors. I just cut them off, stripped the ends and crimped on the remaining two red leads.
The hex collar molded into the cable mount hub is to allow use of a wrench to prevent rotation of the hub while the nut is tightened. However, the collar is thin which makes it impossible to use something like a normal crescent wrench (which is much wider than the collar). As you tighten the nut, it will eventually run into the wrench before the nut is tight enough.
I found it easier to install the hub temporarily into the top base place as described above. Then position the whip inside the hub to set the length, but then to mark the required length on the whip. Then remove the cable mount from the top base plate, position the whip using the prior length marking and tighten it while not attached to the top base plate. This gives you enough room to use a wrench on the collar and one on the nut. Once the whip is tight inside the hub, remount and tighten the cable mount hub to the top base plate. Recheck that whip length is correct once done.
As best as I can tell, nowhere are you instructed to tighten the TSLOT bolts after being instructed to keep them loose for the tower and top installation. For me, now was a good time to tighten before installing and setting belt tension, not to mention trying to lift the printer from the top at this stage.
Washers are provided in the Duet hardware bag and in the photos are shown used to mount the Duet board, but are not listed in the instructions. I used them to mount as shown in the photos.
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I agree with other comments about adding a list of tools and materials as well as the small font on the bags being VERY difficult to read. Parts bags were grouped by physical orientation (bottom plate, etc.), but assembly instructions jumped around enough that multiple bags were open at the same time. It would be more helpful is bags corresponded to instruction steps. Or maybe assign numbers to bags and then each step can note what bag(s) to pull hardware from. I also had a decent amount of hardware left over when done. So throughout the build I wasn’t sure if I had missed assembling something or if having extra was normal. I do appreciate having some extras. Lastly, my printer powered up and printed on its first try without me having to debug or fix any issues (other than trimming off extra belt on carriages). So that is a testament to the quality of the instructions.
If too much excess is left on the belt, it can prevent correct operation of the end stop system. This happens by the excess belt hitting the top base, folding over and then covering the hole in which the carriage probe passes through. This prevents the probe from triggering the end stop switch.
Instructions are missing quite a bit of detail. Tube locks are not mentioned, but are shown in photos. No discussion on how to insert tube into sheath. I used photos as guidelines. I pushed together the sheath to loosen the weave and create an opening for the tube. Once inserted I did the same for where the tube exits the weave close to the SE300. Using the photos as the guidelines, I threaded the the tube through the lock, inserted the tube into the EZR until it bottomed out and then inserted the fork section of the lock in-between the locking sleeve and the body of the EZR. I did the same for the SE300 end. I found my PTFE tube to be too long by about three inches. I trimmed it to length and did final installation and checked that the whip had some slack when the SE300 was at its furthest reach at the Y tower.
If you don’t follow the instructions correctly and install the blocks upside down this will cause problems later. The blocks look symmetrical, but they are not. If installed upside down, it will set the bed height too high and will prevent the bed clamps from rotating into place.
The fan for the Duet did not have connectors and I crimped KK connectors on as instructed. This fan already had KK connectors installed. Maybe I used the wrong fans at the wrong time, or maybe this one just happened to have KK connectors. I just cut them off, stripped the ends and crimped on the remaining two red leads.
The hex collar molded into the cable mount hub is to allow use of a wrench to prevent rotation of the hub while the nut is tightened. However, the collar is thin which makes it impossible to use something like a normal crescent wrench (which is much wider than the collar). As you tighten the nut, it will eventually run into the wrench before the nut is tight enough.
I found it easier to install the hub temporarily into the top base place as described above. Then position the whip inside the hub to set the length, but then to mark the required length on the whip. Then remove the cable mount from the top base plate, position the whip using the prior length marking and tighten it while not attached to the top base plate. This gives you enough room to use a wrench on the collar and one on the nut. Once the whip is tight inside the hub, remount and tighten the cable mount hub to the top base plate. Recheck that whip length is correct once done.
As best as I can tell, nowhere are you instructed to tighten the TSLOT bolts after being instructed to keep them loose for the tower and top installation. For me, now was a good time to tighten before installing and setting belt tension, not to mention trying to lift the printer from the top at this stage.
Washers are provided in the Duet hardware bag and in the photos are shown used to mount the Duet board, but are not listed in the instructions. I used them to mount as shown in the photos.