As far as I can tell these linear rail bolts aren’t removed in order to remove anything else, i.e. the rail will not be removed from the tower.
They are long enough to protrude into the tower cavity and snag any wires that are pulled through, so I am fairly sure that the ONLY reason to remove them is to allow easy passage of the wires.
It seems to be a BAD idea to try print a fairly large model in two different colors at the same time.
The reason being that the first layer is in any case printed slowly and the one in the first color takes quite a while, example 5 minutes.
That cools as the second color one’s first layer is printed, which will also take a similar 5 minutes, but since color 2 is already loaded the printer will stay on the second model for layer 2 - example another 3 minutes.
By the time the color switch has been done for layer 2 on the first model (example; over 8 minutes) that first model will have cooled significantly and layer adhesion will become an issue.
There are probably guide lines SOMEWHERE on the general issue of layer adhesion and cooling time between layers, but this is the first time I have run into it.
If you get the 4 mm mark as I described in my previous comment you may notice that the filament didn’t break cleanly i.e. you will be able to see stringing through the bowden tube.
This is stringing of the 1.75 mm filament, so there is quite a bit of stringed material that will get pushed toward the nozzle when that filament is fed.
When each filament is retracted there will be similar stringing i.e. at every color switch.
I don’t have a good record of how many prints or how much material it took, but EVENTUALLY that built up in my printer and caused a jam IN the extruder.
At a guess 5 dual color prints of around 4 m each.
The 40 mm mark is where each extruder will retract to on each nozzle switch.
Here is another way to find and mark it;
1) Manually set the extruder temperature to whatever temp is appropriate for the filament you will use.
2) When it reaches that temperature extrude by hand with the extruder’s knob.
3) Allow a few seconds for the nozzle to stop oozing.
4) Wind back the knob exactly 5 full turns, you will feel the filamnt “break” somewhere around the first full turn.
(this is easier to measure if you have knobs with distinct marks on them, or the 3 arm ones.
5) Where you see the end of the filament is the 40 mm mark, wrap a piece of translucent tape around the tube at this point and mark it with a pen - the tube itself will not take ink.
Repeat steps 1 through 5 above for the other filament.
============================
When you do you test prints watch that the filaments are retracting to these 40 mm marks.
I am not at all sure why they have to come back so far, but it seems to be some sort of standard start/finish line.
I think some slightly more in depth explanation would be a good thing here, i.e. there is need to load a dual extruder printer and it can be done by “importing” a whole “project”.
Some explanation/description of .3mf files would help.
Once the “project” is downloaded and unpacked there is a choice to be made;
a) Use the printer configuration and print the 20 mm test cube, troubleshoot from there.
or
b) Print the fairly large and time consuming bat man thing.
So far my experiments with Cura 3.6 seem to indicate that the problem(s) is/are mostly with retraction at nozzle switch time, i.e. the retractions are far too short for the filament being retracted to get out of the way of the filament being switched to.
This can be SEEN if you are close enough, and HEARD as extruder skip/chatter/skidding.
With 3.4.1 this (nominally) works.
NOTE: I have been using Cura 3.6 for single extruder prints for some time and it seems to be a significant improvement over 3.4.x and 3.5.x
The back enclosure has undergone a revision, generally for the better.
The one that came with my Artemis kit in August 2018 wasn’t a very good print and I just got around to printing my own.
I had cloned the github in August and I have frozen my copy to keep it at the same revision level as my machine.
The new style back enclosure sets the screen farther forward and that is the good part, however the posts for mounting the printed circuit board have been moved closer to the center, so it is impossible to mount the board on those posts.
Just a detail, the two holes in the right hand edge are “good enough” and since I don’t have access to a drawing file (only STL) I can’t move the posts.
BTW, if you update/upgrade to the more recent rear enclosure you will need 2 more screws.
I sincerely DOUBT that there is any NEED to “Delete all files on the micro SD card”
That would (for example) delete the my_prints folder.
I think it FAR BETTER to replace the files in (for example) sys and www folders.
As far as I can tell these linear rail bolts aren’t removed in order to remove anything else, i.e. the rail will not be removed from the tower.
They are long enough to protrude into the tower cavity and snag any wires that are pulled through, so I am fairly sure that the ONLY reason to remove them is to allow easy passage of the wires.
Also;
TIP.
It seems to be a BAD idea to try print a fairly large model in two different colors at the same time.
The reason being that the first layer is in any case printed slowly and the one in the first color takes quite a while, example 5 minutes.
That cools as the second color one’s first layer is printed, which will also take a similar 5 minutes, but since color 2 is already loaded the printer will stay on the second model for layer 2 - example another 3 minutes.
By the time the color switch has been done for layer 2 on the first model (example; over 8 minutes) that first model will have cooled significantly and layer adhesion will become an issue.
There are probably guide lines SOMEWHERE on the general issue of layer adhesion and cooling time between layers, but this is the first time I have run into it.
If you get the 4 mm mark as I described in my previous comment you may notice that the filament didn’t break cleanly i.e. you will be able to see stringing through the bowden tube.
This is stringing of the 1.75 mm filament, so there is quite a bit of stringed material that will get pushed toward the nozzle when that filament is fed.
When each filament is retracted there will be similar stringing i.e. at every color switch.
I don’t have a good record of how many prints or how much material it took, but EVENTUALLY that built up in my printer and caused a jam IN the extruder.
At a guess 5 dual color prints of around 4 m each.
The 40 mm mark is where each extruder will retract to on each nozzle switch.
Here is another way to find and mark it;
1) Manually set the extruder temperature to whatever temp is appropriate for the filament you will use.
2) When it reaches that temperature extrude by hand with the extruder’s knob.
3) Allow a few seconds for the nozzle to stop oozing.
4) Wind back the knob exactly 5 full turns, you will feel the filamnt “break” somewhere around the first full turn.
(this is easier to measure if you have knobs with distinct marks on them, or the 3 arm ones.
5) Where you see the end of the filament is the 40 mm mark, wrap a piece of translucent tape around the tube at this point and mark it with a pen - the tube itself will not take ink.
Repeat steps 1 through 5 above for the other filament.
============================
When you do you test prints watch that the filaments are retracting to these 40 mm marks.
I am not at all sure why they have to come back so far, but it seems to be some sort of standard start/finish line.
The default for this print is PLA in both extruders, i.e. it is dual COLOR pla.
If you are using a different material, e.g. ABS, then (obviously) change temps.
I think some slightly more in depth explanation would be a good thing here, i.e. there is need to load a dual extruder printer and it can be done by “importing” a whole “project”.
Some explanation/description of .3mf files would help.
Once the “project” is downloaded and unpacked there is a choice to be made;
a) Use the printer configuration and print the 20 mm test cube, troubleshoot from there.
or
b) Print the fairly large and time consuming bat man thing.
So far my experiments with Cura 3.6 seem to indicate that the problem(s) is/are mostly with retraction at nozzle switch time, i.e. the retractions are far too short for the filament being retracted to get out of the way of the filament being switched to.
This can be SEEN if you are close enough, and HEARD as extruder skip/chatter/skidding.
With 3.4.1 this (nominally) works.
NOTE: I have been using Cura 3.6 for single extruder prints for some time and it seems to be a significant improvement over 3.4.x and 3.5.x
12/12/2018
I wish I could edit the previous comment.
It seems the earlier version may not have been designed to have the circuit board screwed to the three posts, i.e. they may be there as support only.
I am fairly sure that I didn’t have to drill them to get screws in.
The back enclosure has undergone a revision, generally for the better.
The one that came with my Artemis kit in August 2018 wasn’t a very good print and I just got around to printing my own.
I had cloned the github in August and I have frozen my copy to keep it at the same revision level as my machine.
The new style back enclosure sets the screen farther forward and that is the good part, however the posts for mounting the printed circuit board have been moved closer to the center, so it is impossible to mount the board on those posts.
Just a detail, the two holes in the right hand edge are “good enough” and since I don’t have access to a drawing file (only STL) I can’t move the posts.
BTW, if you update/upgrade to the more recent rear enclosure you will need 2 more screws.
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